There are many techniques for getting colour and pattern onto cloth, and our programme covers most of them from time to time.
But you might be wondering, what are the differences between all these types of dye, and where do fabric paint and earth pigments come into it?
To start with let’s look at the distinction between dye and paint: put simply, dyes are soluble and form a bond with the fibre of the cloth, becoming part of it, often with the help of a mordant or a fixative.
Paints (fabric paint, earth pigments, acrylic), on the other hand, are insoluble pigment particles suspended in a binder. They coat the fibres, sitting on the surface of the cloth or in the gaps between the threads. This can have implications for the hand or drape of the finished piece and its stitchability or wearability.
We’ll save paints for another post, but here’s a brief summary of the main types of dye we use in the studio.
To start with let’s look at the distinction between dye and paint: put simply, dyes are soluble and form a bond with the fibre of the cloth, becoming part of it, often with the help of a mordant or a fixative.
Paints (fabric paint, earth pigments, acrylic), on the other hand, are insoluble pigment particles suspended in a binder. They coat the fibres, sitting on the surface of the cloth or in the gaps between the threads. This can have implications for the hand or drape of the finished piece and its stitchability or wearability.
We’ll save paints for another post, but here’s a brief summary of the main types of dye we use in the studio.
Natural Dyes
Natural dyes are the oldest type of dye, derived, as the name suggests, mainly from plant materials (with a few animal sources thrown in - hello cochineal…). These dyes need another substance, known as a mordant, to help them bind to fabrics and stay colourfast, and the colour produced from a specific plant can be modified by factors such as acidity, or the presence of iron in the mix.
Some plants which would appear to possess amazing colour potential (think blackberries and beetroot for example) actually produce disappointing results or fleeting colour, due to the type of chemical that contains the colour. However, from a relatively few plants it’s possible to obtain a wide range of colours and shades with a little knowhow. Natural dyes are a fascinating subject to dive into.
Some plants which would appear to possess amazing colour potential (think blackberries and beetroot for example) actually produce disappointing results or fleeting colour, due to the type of chemical that contains the colour. However, from a relatively few plants it’s possible to obtain a wide range of colours and shades with a little knowhow. Natural dyes are a fascinating subject to dive into.
Indigo
Indigo is also a natural dye, but it is in a class of its own. It produces colour on cloth through the process of oxidation. The most common way of using it is to set up an indigo vat where oxygen is driven out. Fabric dipped in the vat emerges a startling green colour, slowly turning blue as it is exposed to oxygen in the air. Successive dips in the vat produce stronger colour.
Many countries have an ancient indigo tradition, producing striking blue and white cloth with the use of resists.
This magical process is endlessly intriguing, producing stunning results for lovers of blue and white cloth.
Many countries have an ancient indigo tradition, producing striking blue and white cloth with the use of resists.
This magical process is endlessly intriguing, producing stunning results for lovers of blue and white cloth.
Procion dyes
Procion dyes are the modern, synthetic equivalent, developed to make the dyeing process easier, more predictable (brighter and more colourfast), more commercial. They were first discovered in the 1850’s by William Perkin, who was trying to synthesise Quinine, but instead found a purple dye.
This type of dye is known as fibre-reactive, meaning that, with the help of a fixative (soda ash) they form a permanent bond with the fibre, becoming part of it. They are mainly suitable for cellulose fabrics (cotton, linen, ramie, viscose) although they will produce softer colours on protein fibres (silk, wool). Used responsibly, Procion dyes should not be harmful to the environment as once the dye has bound to the fibre, any remaining dye is inactive, coloured water.
This type of dye is known as fibre-reactive, meaning that, with the help of a fixative (soda ash) they form a permanent bond with the fibre, becoming part of it. They are mainly suitable for cellulose fabrics (cotton, linen, ramie, viscose) although they will produce softer colours on protein fibres (silk, wool). Used responsibly, Procion dyes should not be harmful to the environment as once the dye has bound to the fibre, any remaining dye is inactive, coloured water.
The dyes mentioned can be used as a dye bath for immersion dyeing and for patterning through resist techniques or, when thickened, for printing on fabric. Plant material can also be used for direct printing onto fabric and paper (eco-printing) - but that’s a technique for another day!
Thanks for reading ... Terry
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